Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
